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1. Layout round column locations. Mark an outline of the bottom
of each plinth at each location on the deck and mark the location
of the column shaft inside the base/plinth at each location.
2. There are three recommended methods of bottom rail attachment
between round columns. Choice of an installation method will vary
depending on column size, code requirements and application.
 a.
The base/plinth is cut away to allow the rail to pass through the
base and allow the rail to attach to the column shaft or internal
structure. In some cases, depending on the rail size used, local
spacing code, and the height and profile of the base/plinth, this
can most easily be achieved by letting the rail into the round base
and allowing the rail to rest on top of the square plinth. On some
column sizes it may be best to cut away some portion of both the
plinth and round base in order to let the rail intersect the column
shaft.
b.
An optional MarbleTex™ column pedestal slightly higher and wider
than the column plinth may be supplied by Melton Classics for the
column to sit on in order to allow a butt joint at the bottom rail/column
intersection.
c.
Where codes allow, the rail may be raised to a sufficient height
so as to intersect the column shaft above the base/plinth.
Any one of these methods are acceptable. Cost, column base/plinth
size, code compliance, ease of installation and other factors may
affect the installers method of choice.
*
For fluted columns a rosette with a reeded and radius side to match
the flute pattern and column profile (by others) may be used to
allow a smooth vertical butt joint attachment to the column shaft
to be achieved, or the column shaft may be altered to achieve a
smooth intersection point.
3. Measure to determine the distance between column shafts where
rail will attach. Allow additional length for cutting a dedicated
template from both ends of each rail section to use in marking of
pin locating holes. Also allow extra length for radius on rail end
where rail meets column shaft. Caulk joint at rail/column intersection
and rail/base/plinth intersection should be 1/8” minimum on
each end for an expansion joint. Note: Failure to allow for expansion
can cause cracking or deformation of the system.
4. Shape rail end as necessary with abrasive saw or fine diamond
tooth saw, and shape rail end with belt sander or dremel tool to
achieve radius at column shaft intersection.
5. Determine how many balusters per rail section are needed for
local code requirements. Compliance with code requirements is the
responsibility of the installing contractor.
6. Measure and mark centers for each baluster location in precut
rail sections. Place the first baluster at desired spacing from
each end of the bottom rail for your code spacing and evenly space
the rest of the balusters in that section. Be sure to check spacing
between first baluster location and column for code spacing.
7. Drill holes for baluster pipe locations in bottom rail sections.
Use carbide hole saw/drill bit combination with center pilot drill
bit. Use at least 1" hole saw size and 1/4" pilot drill
size to allow for baluster pipe plumb variance.
Tip: Swimming the drill in a circle while drilling will simplify
removing the marble rail plug.
Tip: Delay setting the columns, cutting the rails to length, drilling
for balusters and installing rail connectors in one section on each
end of the balustrade until the rest of the system is in place to
allow for any adjustment that may be necessary.
Tip: If electrical wiring is to be run through the system, put
a pilot wire through rail prior to installation of rail connectors
to allow wiring to be installed later.
8. Cope base/plinth as necessary to receive bottom rail according
to your method of choice using abrasive blade saw, dremel tool and
belt sander. Splitting the base in halves will help simplify coping
the base to fit the rail. Allow 1/8" minimum caulk joint for
expansion and contraction. Note: Failure to allow for expansion
can cause cracking or deformation of the system.
9. Beginning in the center of the balustrade run, remove the temporary
column supports and install the first column in the location as
marked in item #1 and check level. Install the balustrade and columns
from the center point toward each end of the run until you reach
the last section. Balustrade can be installed between existing round
or square columns, but it is normally simpler to install the column
along with the railing which provides easier access for rail installation
and some ability to adjust column locations as needed.
10. Locate dedicated rail connector template and mark hole locations
in columns. Two pins are required for standard rail installation.
Locate two single pin connectors one each in opposing corners of
each rail end. Pre drill holes in columns for the bottom rail connection.
Be sure to use template for the rail section to be installed as
pipe locations may vary. Also allow for height of plinth, drainage
spacers or rail supports when marking for pin locations.
11. Install drainage spacers or rail supports approximately three
feet on center between columns. After marking spacer locations on
deck, apply adhesive to the bottom of each drainage spacer and press
in place. Quickly apply adhesive to top of drainage spacer/rail
support and install bottom rail. Align spacers with bottom rail.
12. Temporarily insert the two tallest premeasured balusters for
that rail section in the two extreme baluster hole locations in
the bottom rail. Place top rail in position on balusters and mark
top rail connector locations on column using the previously installed
rail connector as a guide. Note: Due to shrinkage after casting,
balusters may vary slightly in overall height. Measure all balusters
and group by height so that similar height balusters will be used
together in each section.
13. Remove top rail and drill holes in column. Note: For electrical
wiring drill center hole also.
14. For single pin connectors apply construction adhesive to spring
end of pin prior to placing them in the two pipes in each rail section.
Insert rail connector in opposing corners of the rail quickly and
align before cement sets. Note: For installation of two pin connectors
between columns align rail connection pins vertically for best results.
Apply PVC pipe cement to the interior of the pipe in each bottom
rail section and on the outside of the railing connector. Recess
two pin connector 1/4” into the rail and check alignment.
15. Apply adhesive to edge of each hole in the bottom rail (1/4”
bead at edge of hole). Place balusters in each hole in bottom rail,
and wipe off any excess adhesive.
16. Install rail connectors in top rail.
17. Apply adhesive around pipe on top of baluster and install top
rail starting from one end and aligning each pipe with pre drilled
holes. Wipe off excess adhesive. Note: Be sure to check to see if
all connector pins are secured in the holes in the column shaft.
Immediately check balusters for square before glue sets.
18. After installation of all but the two end sections of rail,
predrill and install the last two columns and sections of railing.
19. Insert expansion joint rope "backer rod" in the expansion
joint on each end of the top and bottom rail. Recess 1/4”
for best caulk bead adhesion.
20. Clean entire system with scrub brush and “Simple Green”
Cleaner or similar cleaner to remove any dirt or stains that occurred
during installation. Use fine sandpaper for stubborn stains.
21. Caulk the expansion joint between columns or posts and rails,
and the ends of all balusters with recommended polyurethane caulk.
IMPORTANT : Melton Classics MarbleTex™ Balustrades & Columns
are a prefinished product. Store in a dry area prior to installation,
and protect from dirt and stains during installation.
(balinstcolumns7/00)
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