| A. |
PARTS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION |
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Included: |
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The following will be provided for each
10’ section of rail purchased |
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2 - |
2” x 1 ½” L Brackets |
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4 - |
1 ¾” x 3/16” Blue Hex Head Screws for anchoring
L brackets to the Newel post, column or wall. |
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4 - |
½” Pan Head screws for anchoring L brackets
to the sub-rail |
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3 - |
¼” x 3 ¼” Blue Phillips Head screws
for anchoring bottom rail to the sub-surface. |
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The following will be provided
for each Newel Post purchased: |
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1 - |
1 ¼” Channel Iron |
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1 - |
3/8” Threaded Rod: 36 ½” for the 6”
Newel Post; 48” for the extended 6”
Newel post. |
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1 - |
3/8” Concrete Anchor and Hex Nut. A 3/8” Zinc
coated threaded insert will be provided for Wood Installation
in place of concrete anchor. |
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Important: Rails should be
stored on a flat surface, topside up, prior to being installed. |
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Rails are designed to butt into the sides of newel posts,
columns or walls and not into each other. The structural integrity
of this balustrade system assembly is based on adherence to
the following installation instructions. |
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Not Included: |
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The following will need to be purchased
before beginning installation. Materials can be purchased at
most home improvement centers. |
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Sub-Rail |
Pressure treated ½” plywood ripped down to 3”
wide cut the length of each to rail section. |
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Screws |
1” Coarse threaded screws for anchoring the spindles
to the sub rail. |
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Adhesive |
Premium grade heavy-duty sub floor adhesive. |
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Sealant/Caulk |
Premium grade Elastomeric Latex Sealant such as DAP Dynaflex
230 |
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Silicone |
(optional) Use a premium grade of silicone on upper level
installations where you want to prevent moisture seepage below. |
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Bondo |
(optional) Used to fill in rail seams if necessary or for
any repairs |
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Shims |
(optional) Can be purchased separately or with your order.
Shim size is 4” x 1” x 5” and is used primarily
for roof top installations. Space shims 18” on center
with a shim at 1” from both ends of each bottom rail section. |
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| B. |
PREPARATION TIPS |
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General: |
Specify whether installation is on a concrete or wood surface
and if there are any stair or roof top installations when ordering.
This will insure that the correct installation hardware is provided
with your order.
Each installation will vary slightly. Read the installation
instructions completely. Consult your representative if you
have any questions before starting your installation. |
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Cutting: |
Use a masonry blade where cuts are required on the top and
bottom rail. Use a grinder with metal grinding wheel for a flush
finish. |
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Drain Holes: |
Use Dewalt’s 1 ¾” steel door hole saw.
Drainage holes are not needed for wood installation. |
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Seams: |
The rails come in varied lengths cut to order to avoid seams,
however if your installation necessitates a seam in the rail
you can use automotive auto-body filler or “Bondo”
to fill the seam. Follow the instructions on the can and sand
smooth. Use the Dynaflex 230 to fill any gaps. |
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Adhesive: |
For all attachments it is recommended that a premium grade
sub floor adhesive be used. Follow the directions for the adhesive
used as not all products have the same drying times. |
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Sub-Rail: |
Use pressure treated ½” plywood ripped down to
3” wide cut the length of each top rail section. Synboard
(see C15 for installation) will be installed as fillet after
the spindle installation is complete. |
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Painting: |
Application of a high quality exterior primer such as Kilz
or Zinsser 123 is recommended followed by a premium grade of
exterior topcoat. Follow the paint manufacturers instructions
concerning use within temperature ranges for best results. |
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Custom: |
Stair and radius rail sections are priced separately. For
stair installations the newel post as well as the top and bottom
of the baluster are extended to allow for angle cuts. A template,
provided by the customer, is required for radius rail sections. |
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| C. |
INSTALLATION OF STRAIGHT
RAIL AND NEWEL POSTS |
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See separate installation instructions
for half newel posts (Below) as well as stair rail and stair
newel posts (Below) |
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1. |
IMPORTANT – Floor sub surface must
be finished before beginning installation.
If rails are to be connected to a wall, round column, or your
own posts, which were not purchased as part of our balustrade
system, you will need to have these installed before beginning
installation. Make sure the spacing of the balusters and height
of the completed balustrade system adheres to your local code
requirements and use guidelines. Lay out the complete balustrade
system allowing for the newel posts, balusters, and rails. Using
a pencil, outline the placement of the bottom rail and newel
post. Putting tape over the post pencil markings will protect
the floor surface from adhesive. Tip: After setting, let the
adhesive dry overnight. Remove excess with a sharp wood chisel.
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2. |
Install the newel posts before installing the rails or balusters.
The newel post consists of 2 pieces: the post and the cap. It
is very important that the post is leveled under the post for
leveling. The wedge will be caulked in after installation. If
the slope is greater than ¼” it is recommended
that you trim the bottom of the post to level. |
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3. |
Mark the placement for the center of each newel post on the
sub-surface. Drill an 11/16” hole for the concrete anchor
at the center of the placement. Tap the concrete anchor into
the drilled hole. Wood installations will use a 3/8” zinc
coated threaded insert in place of the concrete anchor. Drill
a ½” hole slightly deeper that the threaded insert
and use a 7/16” Allen wrench to screw the insert into
the drilled hole. Clean area by brushing away any dust before
applying adhesive in the next step.
NOTE: For upper level installations where you want to prevent
moisture seepage below, use a premium grade silicone as described
in the following instructions. Fill the drilled hole with silicone
before inserting the concrete anchor or threaded insert and
fill the anchor or insert with silicone as well. Insert the
threaded rod. Prepare a 1 ½” gasket to fit over
the rod putting silicone on both the top and bottom of the gasket.
Tighten the gasket by using a 3/8” x 1 ½”
washer and hex nut, do not over tighten. Mound additional silicone
around the gasket, washer, and nut and up 1” on the rod. |
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4. |
Apply a heavy bead of adhesive to the bottom of the post.
Center the post over the anchor and adhere it to the floor surface.
Note: the cutouts on the newel post should be facing up. Screw
a 3/8” threaded rod into the concrete anchor, or 3/8”
threaded insert for wood installations. Drill a 3/8” hole
in the channel iron that will line up with the threaded rod.
Slip the channel iron over the threaded rod through the drilled
hole and into the cutouts in the post. Secure the rod into the
channel iron using a hex nut. Cut off any excess on the threaded
rod if necessary. |
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5. |
Run a heavy bead of adhesive along the outer top edge of the
post as well as around the inside ledge of the cap. Place the
newel cap on top of the post and slide into place. Make sure
the cap is square and even. See separate instructions for installing
half newel posts and stair newel posts. |
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6. |
IMPORTANT: Drill the drainage holes before
securing the bottom rail sections to the sub-surface. Note:
drainage holes are generally not needed for wood installations.
Cut 7/8” to 1” half round holes at the base of each
bottom rail section at the point where the bottom rail connects
to the newel post, column, or wall. There should be
a drainage hole on BOTH ENDS and on BOTH SIDES of the bottom
rail. You will also need to drill additional drainage
holes on both sides of the rail at any other low areas or where
deemed necessary. The preferred method for making the drainage
holes is to use a dewalt 1 ¾” steel door hole saw.
For two bottom rails the same length, turn the two rails over
on their sides and clamp together. Using the hole saw drill
a hole through the center of the clamped rails. This will give
you a 7/8” half round hole on both rails. If the rails
are different lengths you can still use the 1 ¾”
hole saw by first marking the rails for the drain holes, clamping
the rails together and drilling a hole at the markings. If another
piece is not available, clamp a piece of 2 x 4 to the bottom
rail and drill the hole through the rail and 2 x 4. |
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7. |
Temporarily place the bottom rail inside the pencil marks
and slide into place next to the installed newel post. It is
VERY IMPORTANT to leave a 1/8” gap between the rail and
the newel post, column, or wall at both rail ends. These expansion
joints will be caulked later. Similar to any product subject
to hot and cold weather conditions you may experience contractions
and expansions in the rail, which may require occasional, touch
ups in the expansion joints. Determine the spacing to be used
between each baluster and cut several wood blocks to that width.
Be sure spacing adheres to the 4” sphere code, if required.
Temporarily lay the spindles along side the rail and using the
wood spacer blocks as a guide mark the spindle placements on
the rail. Using a carpenter’s square outline the sides
of each spindle on the rail. Also, mark the spindle centers
for placement of the spindle rods. |
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8. |
Use a ¾” spade drill bit to drill a hole through
the bottom rail into the markings for each spindle center. The
bottom rail is attached to the sub-surface using the ¼”
x 3 ¼” blue Phillips head screws. You will use
4 per 10” rail section (2 per 5’ section and 3 per
7’ section) spaced equally. These screws will be placed
right next to a ¾” drilled hole inside the spindle
outline so that the spindle will be placed over to the screw.
Counter sink and pilot drill a 3/16” hole for each screw.
Move the bottom rail and drill a 3/16” into the sub-surface
that will align with the 3/16” screw drillings in the
bottom rail. Clean area by brushing away any dust before applying
adhesive in the next step. NOTE: For upper level 1 installations
where you want to prevent moisture seepage use a premium grade
of silicone to fill the 3/16” drilled hole in the sub-surface. |
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9. |
Turn the bottom rail upside down and using the adhesive spot
glue approximately every 18” on the bottom of both sides
of the bottom rail. DO NOT run a continuous bead of
adhesive the length of the rail and DO NOT caulk the bottom
rail where it attaches to the floor, this will allow for drainage
between glue spots. Place the rail back into place
inside the markings; remembering to leave the 1/8” expansion
gaps at both rail ends. Screw in the ¼” x 3 ¼”
screws. CAUTION: Do not over tighten the screws.
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10. |
Before installing the spindles measure the height of the spindles
that will be used for that rail section. Due to shrinkage after
casting, spindles may vary slightly in overall height. Measure
all spindles and group by height so that similar height spindles
will be used together in each section. Set the two tallest spindles
for that rail section at each end. You may also trim the spindle
tops to the same height if desired. Run a continuous bead of
adhesive around the bottom of each spindle and set the spindles
in place on the rail using the pencil markings for placement.
Be sure to line the spindles up with the seams positioned on
the same side and pointing in the same direction. |
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11. |
For sub-rail take the ½” pressure treated plywood
ripped to 3” wide and cut to the length required to fit
flush (no gaps) between the newel post, column, or wall. Run
a bead of adhesive around the top of the balusters. Center the
sub-rail over the top of the balusters making sure each baluster
is level and square. Use the wood spacer blocks to level balusters.
Tack the sub rail to the balusters using an air gun and shoot
2 – 1” nails close to each baluster center. Secure
the balusters by counter sinking and pilot drilling 27/64”
holes close to the baluster center and screw in 2 – 1”
screws. |
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12. |
Before attaching the L bracket to the sub-rail and newel post,
column, or wall apply adhesive to the backside of the L bracket.
Attach the 2” side of the L bracket to each end of the
sub-rail using two ½” pan head screws. Center the
L bracket on the newel post, column, or wall and attach the
1 ½” side of the L bracket by pilot drilling two
holes with a 5/32” drill bit. Screw in two 1 ¾”
x 3/16” blue hex head screws per L bracket. |
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13. |
To install the top rail – run a bead of adhesive along
the top of the sub-rail as well as along the channel underneath
the top rail. Slide the top rail into place over the sub-rail.
It is very important to leave a 1/8” gap at both ends
of the rail between the top rail and newel post, column, or
wall. These expansion joints will be caulked in later. Between
every fifth baluster opening counter sink and pilot drill a
7/64” hole on the underside of the sub-rail into the underside
of the top rail. Screw in a 1” coarse threaded screw.
This will tighten the sub-rail to the top rail. |
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14. |
To attach a rail that will go from a round column to a round
column, you can cope the top and bottom rail with a grinder,
belt sander, and/or dremel tool, to fit around the column and
base/plinth. You may also cut the column base in half, slide
the rail to the column, and cope both base halves to fit around
the bottom rail. Using adhesive glue the base/plinth on to the
sub surface around the column. |
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15. |
To finish, lightly sand the rails and newel posts. To install
the synboard fillet under the top rail cut the synboard to the
width required to fit between the balusters. Use an air gun
or adhesive to attach the synboard to the sub-rail. Cauld the
seams, the 1/8” expansion joints and connecting points
with Dynaflex 230. For drainage do not caulk the bottom
of the rail where it is adhered to the floor surface.
It is recommended that a high quality exterior primer such as
Kilz or Zinsser 123 should be applied to the rails, newel posts
and spindles followed by a premium grade of exterior topcoat.
Follow the paint manufacturers instructions concerning their
products use within temperature ranges for best results. Do
not use paint or solvents containing acetone. |
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The following will need to
be purchased before installation: |
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You will not need a channel iron,
threaded rod or the concrete anchor and hex nut for installation
of the half newel post. The materials that are needed can be
purchased at most home improvement centers. |
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For each half-newel post
you will need to purchase: |
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1 - |
2 x 4 x 24” Pressure treated board to secure the half
post to the wall |
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8 - |
½” x 3” Blue Tapcon Phillips Head Screws |
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1. |
Read steps C2 – C5 on pages 2 and 3 before proceeding.
Installation of the half newel post is similar to the full newel
post. Check that the post is level before beginning installation. |
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2. |
Temporarily locate and mark the position of the half post
on the wall. Place the treated board on the wall so that it
will be centered in the cavity of the half post. Apply a generous
amount of adhesive to the back of the board. Counter sink and
pilot drill 4 holes using a 3/16” drill bit through the
2 x 4 x 24” board and into the wall. |
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3. |
Secure the half cap to the post by applying a generous amount
of adhesive all around the edges of the half cap and half post.
Center cap and attach. |
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The Following will be provided
for each Extended Newel Post Purchased: |
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1 - |
1 ¼” Channel Iron |
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1 - |
3/8” Threaded Rod – 48” in length, which
will be shortened so that the cap fits flush. |
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1 - |
3/8” Concrete Anchor Hex Nut. A 3/8” zinc coated
threaded insert will be provided for wood installations in place
of the concrete anchor. |
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Not Included:
The materials that are needed can be purchased at be
purchased at most home improvement centers. |
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For each extended newel post
and each rail section you will need to purchase: |
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|
Sand and concrete mix for the extended posts |
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4 - |
¼” x 4” Blue Tapcon Phillips head screws |
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3/16” x 2 ¾” Tapcon Phillips head screws
– 2 for each extended spindle |
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1” Coarse screws |
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1. |
Read installation instructions in C above before proceeding.
The rails will attach to a standard height newel post, column,
or wall at the top of the stairs. An extended post will attach
at the bottom of the stairs. Temporarily position the extended
post at the bottom of the stairs and the standard newel post
at the top of the stairs. Place the bottom rail alongside the
top and bottom posts and mark the vertical position on the rail
to determine the angle cut. Remember to leave the 1/8”
gap for expansion on both ends of the rail. |
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2. |
To determine the height needed for the extended post, temporarily
slide the bottom rail back into place and position it against
the top and bottom posts. Mark the bottom post so that the height
of the revel is the same for both the top and bottom posts.
Use a masonry blade for cutting the rail and bottom of the post.
|
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3. |
It is important that both posts are level and square before
installing. After cutting the bottom post to the correct height
install the post as described in steps C2-C4 on pages 2 and
3. DO NOT install the cap at this point. Be sure post and threaded
rod is secure and stable on the sub-surface before continuing.
The bottom extended posts will require a strong and stable installation,
as the grade of the stairs will force more weight onto these
posts. For added strength pack the bottom extended posts with
a mixture of 2/3 sand and 1/3 concrete mix that has been slightly
moistened. The concrete mixture should come to the top of the
newel post. Be sure to use a moistened, not wet, concrete mix
to minimize leaching between the base and floor surface, which
could result in staining the floor surface. Cut off any excess
threaded rod if necessary and attach the newel cap as described
in C5 on page 3. |
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4. |
Attach the bottom rail to the top and bottom posts by counter
sinking and pilot drilling a 3/16” hole on both sides
and at both ends of the bottom rail. The hole needs to be angled
to go through the side of the rail into the bottom of the post.
Secure the rail with the 4 – ¼” x 4”
blue tapcon screws. |
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5. |
Temporarily place the pressure treated sub-rail against the
top and bottom newel posts to mark the height for the top rail.
You will want the same distance between the top and bottom rail
as the rail on the straight runs. This will also determine the
angle to cut the top and bottom revels of the extended balusters.
Make sure the balusters are in a level position vertically and
that the seams are all pointing in the same direction before
marking and cutting using the wood spacer blocks as a guide.
The baluster should be cut equally at the top and bottom so
that the reveal is the same. |
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6. |
Before attaching the balusters to the bottom rail mark the
baluster positions on the rail so that they are spaced equally
along the rail. Start by installing the top and bottom baluster
to bath the bottom rail and top sub-rail first. Before installing
apply a heavy bead of adhesive to the bottom baluster ends.
To install the bottom baluster counter sink and pilot drill
two 5/32” holes on the sides of each baluster. Angle the
hole through the baluster and into the bottom rail. To install
the top baluster and middle balusters drill the holes at the
bottom on the front side of each baluster i.e. the side facing
the bottom newel post. Secure each baluster to the bottom rail
by using 2 – 3/16” x 2 ¾” tapcon screws.
|
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7. |
Follow steps C11-C12 on page 4 for installation of the sub-rail
including the L brackets. |
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8. |
To install the top rail place the top rail alongside the top
and bottom posts and mark the vertical position on the rail
to determine the angle cut. Follow the installation and finishing
instructions in steps C13-C15 on page 5. |
