| A. |
PARTS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION |
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Included: |
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The following will be provided for each
10’ section of rail purchased |
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2 - |
3” x 1 ½” L Brackets |
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4 - |
1 3/4” Blue Screws for anchoring the L Brackets (2 per
L Bracket) to the Newel Cap, Column or Wall. |
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4 - |
3/8” Threaded roads (36-1/2” for #310 Balusters
and 38-1/2” for #300 Balusters) |
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3 - |
13/8” Concrete Anchor and Hex Nut (wood installations
will have a 3/8” zinc coated threaded insert in place
of the concrete anchor) |
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|
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The following will be provided
for each Newel Post purchased: |
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1 - |
1 1/2” Channel Iron |
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1 - |
3/8” Threaded Rod (36-1/2” for 12” Newel
Post and 38-1/2” for 18” Newel Post) |
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1 - |
3/8” Concrete Anchor and Hex Nut. A 3/8” Zinc
coated threaded insert will be provided for Wood Installation
in place of concrete anchor. |
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|
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Note: |
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Threaded Rods are not used for stair
installations. Please see Stair Installation Instructions. A
3/8” Toggle Nut should be used in place of the concrete
anchors or threaded inserts for Roof Installations so as not
to penetrate the sub surface. |
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|
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Not Included: |
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The following will need to be purchased
before beginning installation. Materials can be purchased at
most home improvement centers. |
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Sub-Rail |
Pressure treated 2x4 for #310 rail system or 2x6 for the #300
rail system cut the length of of the rail for each tip rail
section. |
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Screws |
1” Coarse screws for anchoring the L Bracket to the
sub rail. You will need 2 coarse screws for each L Bracket. |
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Adhesive |
Premium grade heavy-duty sub floor adhesive. |
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Sealant/Caulk |
Premium grade Elastomeric Latex Sealant such as DAP Dynaflex
230. |
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Bondo |
(optional) Used to fill in rail seams if necessary or for
any repairs. |
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|
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| B. |
PREPARATION |
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General: |
SPECIFY WHETHER INSTALLATION IS ON A CONCRETE OR WOOD
SURFACE AND IF THERE ARE ANY STAIR OR ROOF TOP INSTALLATIONS
WHEN ORDERING SO THAT THE CORRECT INSTALLATION HARDWARE
IS PROVIDED. Each installation will vary slightly.
Read the Installation Instructions completely. Consult your
representative if you have any questions BEFORE
starting your installation. |
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Cutting: |
Use a masonry blade where cuts are required on the top and
bottom rail.
Use a grinder with metal grinding wheel for a flush finish. |
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Drain Holes: |
Use Dewalt’s 1 ¾” steel door hole saw.
Drainage holes are not needed for wood installation. |
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Seams: |
Our rails come in varied lengths cut to order to avoid seams,
however if your
installation necessitates a seam in the rail you can use car
“bondo” to fill in the seam. Follow the instructions
on the can and sand smooth. Use the Dynaflex 230 to fill in
any gaps. |
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Adhesive: |
For all attachments it is recommended that a premium grade
sub floor adhesive be used. Follow the directions for the adhesive
used as not all products have the same drying times. Remember
to not skimp on adhesive, apply adhesive generously. |
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Sub-Rail: |
Use pressure treated 2x4’s for the #310 rail system
and 2x6’s for the #300 rail system cut the length of the
rail for each top rail section. The sub-rail is used to help
secure the balusters to the top rail. |
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Painting: |
Application of a high quality exterior primer such as Kilz
or Zinsser 123 is
recommended followed by a premium grade of exterior topcoat.
Follow paint manufacturers instructions concerning use within
temperature ranges for best results. |
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Custom: |
Rail sections for stairs and radiuses are priced separately.
For stair installations the newel post base as well as the top
and bottom of the baluster extended to allow for angle cuts.
Radius rail sections are made per a furnished template. |
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Warranty: |
Melton Classics, Inc. warrants that for the lifetime of ownership,
our product is free from defects in material and workmanship.
Our liability under this warranty is limited to replacement
if the defective product and does not include labor or any other
incurred cost. Improper installation voids this warranty. |
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| C. |
INSTALLATION OF STRAIGHT
RAIL AND NEWEL POSTS |
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See separate installation instructions
for half newel posts (Below) as well as stair rail and stair
newel posts (Below) |
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1. |
IMPORTANT – FLOOR SUB SURFACE SHOULD BE FINISHED
BEFORE INSTALLATION Lay out the complete balustrade
system, allowing for the newel posts, the balusters and the
top and bottom rails. Make sure the spacing of the balusters
and height of the completed system adheres to local code requirement
and use guidelines. |
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2. |
Mark the placement for the center of each baluster and newel
post on the concrete or wood surface. A threaded rod and concrete
anchor will not be needed for each baluster however, EACH
NEWEL POST AND THE FIRST AND LAST BALUSTER FOR EACH RAIL SECTION
MUST HAVE A ROD AND CONCRETE ANCHOR. Space the remaining
concrete anchors equally among the remaining balusters. Drill
an 11/16” hole for the concrete anchor at the center of
each placement. Wood installations will us a 3/8” zinc
coated threaded insert in place of the concrete anchor. Drill
a ½” hole a little deeper than the insert and use
a 7/16” Allen Wrench to set. |
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3. |
Install the newel posts before installing the rails or balusters.
The newel post consists of 3 pieces: the base, the center post
and the cap. The top of the base has an inside ledge while the
bottom of the base does not. Apply a heavy bead of the sub floor
adhesive to the bottom of the base and adhere the base to the
concrete or wood surface. It is very important that the BASE
IS LEVELED before going any further. The base should
be centered over the anchor. Run a bead of adhesive along the
top inside ledge of the base. Place the non-cutout side of the
center post on the base ledge and center the post in the base.
Note, the cutouts on the center post should be facing up. Caulk
the gap between the base and center post with the Dynaflex 230
sealant. Screw a 3/8” threaded rod into the concrete anchor
(or 3/8” threaded insert for wood installations). Drill
a 3/8” hole in the channel iron that will line up with
the threaded rod. Set the channel iron into the column cutouts.
Secure the rod to the channel iron with a hex nut. Run a bead
of adhesive along the outer top edge of the center post as well
as around the inside ledge of the cap. Place the newel cap on
top of the center post and slide into place. See figure (A).
See separate instructions for installing half newel posts. |
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4. |
Mark and drill a ¾” to 1” hole in the bottom
rail to match the spacing of the baluster drillings for the
threaded rod and concrete anchors (or 3/8” threaded inserts
for wood installations). |
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5. |
IMPORTANT: Before securing bottom rail to
concrete cut 1-1/4” half round drainage holes at the base
of each bottom rail section at the point where the bottom rail
connects to the newel post, column or wall. There should be
a drainage hole on BOTH ENDS and on BOTH
SIDES of the bottom rail where the rail connects to
the newel post, column or wall. You will also want to drill
additional drainage holes on both sides of the bottom rail at
any other low areas or where deemed necessary. |
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6. |
Screw the 3/8” threaded rods through the bottom rail
into the concrete anchors (or 3/8” threaded inserts for
wood installations). Not all balusters will need a rod however,
THE FIRST AND LAST BALUSTER FOR EACH RAIL SECTION MUST
HAVE A ROD AND CONCRETE ANCHOR. Attach the other rods
to the remaining anchors or threaded inserts. |
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7. |
Spot glue approximately every 18” on the bottom sides
of the bottom rail and place the bottom rail over the rods.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to leave a 3/16”
gap between the rail and newel post, column or wall. These expansion
joints will be caulked with the Dynaflex 230. Similar to any
product subject to hot and cold weather conditions you may experience
contractions and expansions in the rail which may require occasional
touch ups. |
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8. |
Before installing the balusters, line them up in the proper
direction as baluster molds may vary. BALUSTERS MUST
BE LINED UP WITH THE SEAMS POSITIONED ON THE SAME SIDE AND POINTING
IN THE SAME DIRECTION. Run a continuous bead of the
adhesive around the bottom of the baluster and put the balusters
in place. See figure(B). |
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9. |
Prepare the sub-rail by marking and drilling 3/8” holes
that align with the threaded rods. The end of the sub-rail should
fit flush against the newel post cap, column or wall. Run a
bead of adhesive around the top of the balusters. Center the
sub-rail over the baluster and adhere the sub-rail to the balusters
by snugly fastening the washers and hex nuts to the threaded
rods. CAUTION – DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. |
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10. |
Attach the L Brackets to each end of the sub-rail using two
1” Coarse Screws (not included) for each L Bracket. Attach
the top of the L Bracket by pilot drilling two holes in the
newel cap, column or wall using a 5/32” drill bit and
using the two 1-3/4” Blue Screws (provided). IMPORTANT
– APPLY ADHESIVE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE L BRACKET WHERE
IT ATTAHCES TO THE SUB-RAIL AND POST. See Figure (
C ). |
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11. |
Run a bead of adhesive along the channel underneath the top
rail as well as along the outside edge of the baluster tops.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to leave a 3/16”
gap between the rail and newel post, column or wall. These expansion
joints will be caulked with the Dynaflex 230. Slide the top
rail into place over the sub-rail and the baluster tops. |
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12. |
To finish, lightly sand the rails and newel posts. Install
optional synboard underneath the top rail between the balusters.
Caulk the seams, the 3/16” expansion joints and connecting
points with the Dynaflex 230. It is recommended that a high
quality exterior primer such as Kilz or Zinsser 123 should be
applied to the rails, newel posts and balusters followed by
a premium grade of exterior topcoat. Follow the paint manufacturers
instructions concerning their products use within temperature
ranges for best results. Do not use paint or solvents containing
acetone. |
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|
|
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The following will need to
be purchased before installation: |
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The channel iron, threaded rod, concrete
anchor and hex nut is not needed for the half newel post. The
materials that are needed can be purchased at most home improvement
centers. |
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For each half-newel post
you will need to purchase: |
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|
2” x 6” x 18” Pressure treated board to
secure center of half post to the wall |
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8 - |
1/4” x 3” Blue Tapcon Phillip Head Screw |
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|
|
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1. |
Read installation instructions in step C.3. above before proceeding.
Installation of the half newel post is similar to the full newel
post with the exception of the center post. Be sure to level
the half base. Locate the position of the half base against
the wall. Apply a generous amount of adhesive around the bottom
and cut side of the base and adhere the base to the floor surface
and wall. |
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2. |
Locate and mark the position of the center post on the wall.
Place the 2x6x18” board on the wall so that it will be
centered in the cavity of half center post. Secure the 2x6x18”
pressure treated board to the wall using 4 each ¼”x3”
blue tapcon screws. Remember to counter sink and pilot drill
the holes with a 3/16” bit and apply a generous amount
of adhesive to the back of the board. Attach half center post
to board by first applying a generous amount of adhesive to
the cut side of the post. Counter sink and pilot drill 3/16”
holes on both sides of the post and attach to the side of the
board using the ¼”x3” blue tapcon screws.
Use 2 screws each on both sides. |
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3. |
Secure the half newel cap to the half center post by applying
a generous amount of adhesive all around edges of the half cap
and half center post. |
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|
|
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The Following will be provided
for each Extended Newel Post Purchased: |
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1 - |
1 ½” Channel Iron |
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1 - |
3/8” Concrete Anchor and Hex Nut (wood installations
will have a 3/8” zinc coated threaded insert in place
of the concrete anchor) |
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Not Included:
Threaded rods, concrete anchors, washers and hex nuts
are not needed for installing the balusters on stair installations.
The materials that are needed can be purchased at Home Depot,
Lowes, or most home improvement centers. |
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For each extended newel post
and each rail section you will need to purchase: |
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|
3/8” Threaded Road – 4’ in length for the
extended posts – 1 rod for each extended post. |
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Dry concrete mix for the extended posts. |
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¼”x4” Tapcon Phillip Head Screws to attaché
bottom rail – 4 screws for each rail section. |
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1” Coarse screws. |
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3/16”x2-½” Tapcon Phillip Head Screws to
attach extended balusters – 4 screws for each baluster. |
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Threaded rods are not used
for stair installations |
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1. |
Read installation instructions in C above before proceeding.
Temporarily position the bottom extended post at bottom of stairs
and the top post at top of stairs. Place the bottom rail along
side the posts and mark the vertical position on the rail to
determine the angle cut, remembering to leave the 3/16”
gap for expansion on both rail ends. You will next need to determine
the height needed for the extended newel base. Temporarily slide
bottom rail back in place and position against the top and bottom
bases so that the base revel above the rail is the same at both
ends. Mark the extended base for cutting. Use a masonry blade
for cutting the rail and base. |
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2. |
It is important that the bases are level, square and stable
before installing. After cutting base to correct height install
the base and center post as described in step C.3. DO NOT install
the cap at this point. The extended bases require a strong and
stable installation as the grade of the stairs will force more
weight onto these posts. To help secure the bottom extended
newel post, pack the post with a dry concrete mix before attaching
the newel cap. The concrete should come to the top of the center
post. Be sure to use a dry concrete mix to minimize leaching
between the base and floor surface, which could result in staining
the floor surface. |
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3. |
Attach the bottom rail to the top and bottom base by counter
sinking and pilot drilling a 3/16” angle hole in the bottom
rail. Using a ¼”x4” blue tapcon screw on
each side and at both ends secure the bottom rail to the newel
bases. |
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4. |
Temporarily place the sub-rail to determine the correct height.
This is needed to determine the angle cutting on the balusters.
Making sure the balusters are in a level vertical position,
mark and cut top and bottom of balusters. REMEMBER, place the
baluster seams in the same direction before cutting. The balusters
should be cut equally so that the reveal is the same at the
top and bottom of the baluster. |
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5. |
To attach the balusters to the bottom rail first mark the
baluster positions on the rail so that the balusters are spaced
equally along the rail. Starting with the top baluster, counter
sink and pilot drill two 5/32” holes on the front side
of the baluster bottom (side facing the bottom newel post).
Because of the bottom post, the last baluster should be screwed
in from the side rather than the front of the baluster. Apply
a heavy bead of adhesive to the bottom of the baluster and screw
the baluster and screw the balusters into the rail using the
3/16”x2-½” tapcon screws. |
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6. |
Follow steps C.(. & 10. above for installation of the
sub-rail including the L Backets but excluding the threaded
rods, washers and hex nuts. Attach the balusters to the sub-rail
by pilot drilling two 5/32” holes through the sub-rail
and into the top of the balusters. Apply a heavy bead of adhesive
to the top of the baluster and screw the balusters into the
sub-rail using the 3/16”x2-½” tapcon screws. |
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7. |
Place the top rail along side the posts and mark the vertical
position on the rail to determine the angle cut, remembering
to leave the 3/16” gap to expansion on both rail ends.
Run a bead of adhesive along the channel underneath the top
rail as well as along the outside edge of the baluster tops.
Slide the top rail into place over the sub-rail and the baluster
tops. |
